Through a street, darkly

Went for a walk at 6pm, the streets were dark even though just one block away was the main, well-lit artery avenue of Paulista. Homeward bound workers were streaming out of offices and walking to nearby tube stations. There's plenty of research to show that street lighting goes a long way to reducing street crime, and these days you can get very environmental and energy-efficient alternatives to traditional lamp posts.

But let's face it: it's never going to happen in Brazil or indeed Latin America, is it ? People in this part of the world just don't seem to value this kind of public investment. Much easier to sit in your car with its own headlights and its blacked-out windows and pretend you have no connection to the no-man's land linking bubble to bubble.

In the same vein, I was hit by a sagging black cable - thankfully not electric - as I walked along a street the other day. Why take precautions, Brazil, when you can just keep stumbling from one disaster to another ?

* Don't know whether I've had a cold, hay fever or simply pollution but sneezing has been out of control. Someone told us that this part of town suffers from very high pollution because of all the traffic. Ironic that our old, downmarket neighbourhood probably had better air.

* I need to flush out the truth about toilet paper in Brazil. Luiz told me, to my consternation, that he has always been a flusher, at least for some of the toilet paper. So what's the truth: do Brazilians flush toilet paper or do they not flush it ? Or, like Luiz, do they partially flush it ? We need to get to the, er, bottom of this.

* Credit where credit's due: our new apartment has spectacular showers, with incredible water pressure and luxurious, endless hot water. I took one tonight after using the communal gym one floor down and realized just how pleasant life is when you have this kind of pampering under the one roof. So, yes, life as a rich Brazilian probably does go a long way to minimizing the many shortcomings outside.

* While in the gym, and indeed also in our apartment, I found my eyes drawn inevitably to the stupid box - something I managed to live without for all those months in Bom Retiro. I noted how many ads there were for cars and banks, and also how many imported TV shows, especially "reality" and cooking, eg Jamie Oliver. It's extraordinary how the world, at least the world of entertainment, has shrunk in just a few short years.

* Final random thought for now: had lunch yesterday with new friend Barry, a 37-year-old running his own branded import business (home appliances). His father came to Brazil over 30 years ago from the UK and never really adapted. He finally accepted that Brazilians are not going to change their ways any time soon. Like his father, Barry is also downbeat about this country's prospects. He says there has always been plenty of money in Brazil but simply no will to use it wisely or honestly.

He thinks it will take more than a generation to see any significant change in the country. "About 85% of homes in the North-East don't even have proper plumbing and half of Brazil's population is completely uneducated. Electing politicians will always be a joke as long as we have this kind of electorate." He added that consumers pay about 40% in taxes on all imported goods.

* PS: An article today in The Economist says Brazil is at the top of a list of emerging markets that are flashing big red warning signs re. overheating economy. Beaten to the top spot only by Argentina, Brazil is now looking very worrying, thanks to an uneven economic boom that has priced too many Brazilians (and resident Brits) out of the market. I expect this also explains why crime is on the increase.